Minnesota's George Crosby Manitou State Park
George Crosby Manitou State Park is a true hidden gem of nature, and an undisputed flagship of the Minnesota state parks. But it’s a little bit remote.
How to Get There
Let’s assume that you’ll be starting from Minneapolis, home to a major hub for Delta Airlines. From Minneapolis, you’d drive north on Highway 35 for two and half hours. Along the way, you’ll watch the whole character of the land transform from agrarian Midwest to northern forest. Ultimately you’ll drive over the crest of a great rift valley, then descend many hundreds of feet into the inland Port of Duluth, at the very westernmost tip of Lake Superior. As you drive over the crest (where Hwy 61 joins Hwy 35), it’s good to play an epic music track. I recommend “The Kiss,” from the “Last of the Mohicans.”
https://youtu.be/yB6S3c7f8XA?si=jHXN9XXRrM00YEPX
Duluth is a great little town for taking a break to stretch your legs and get your bearings.
From Duluth, you’ll follow Route 61 along the north shore of Lake Superior.
Now Route 61 runs for 150 miles from Duluth to Pigeon River (US – Canada border). The drive along Route 61 is a scenic marvel that draws you into a vast realm of forest splendor. It’s a byway of outstanding beauty, officially known as the North Shore Scenic Drive. Eight state parks dot the way.
Bob Dylan called it the All-American Road. He wrote a song in homage to it.
https://youtu.be/8hr3Stnk8_k?si=s4AjDZ1PNjZG6559
Unlike the other 7 state parks along Route 61, the main entrance for George Crosby Manitou State Park does not lie on busy Route 61. Instead, you leave Route 61 at Illgen City (population 10), 60 miles from Duluth, then follow Route 1 inland across the Sawtooth Range to the town of Finland, and then follow Route 7 north east to the park entrance. Overall, it’s an hour and a half drive out of Duluth.
Story Time Report. My Most Recent Trip to Backpacking Site #3
On my last visit I was running late and arrived just before sunset. On this August weekend in 2016, I saw only two other cars parked in the parking lot that had space for a few dozen cars. It looked like I would have the entire park to myself. The sky was overcast. It had begun to lightly rain. Warning signs for black bears were posted all around. I was not daunted. This was a rare chance to embark on a solo backpacking trip into the pristine, old growth, deciduous forest of the North Shore. It could be my last chance of the decade.
The Middle Trail. in George Crosby Manitou State Park
I decided to hike overland through the woods in the misty twilight, along the Middle Trail, then strike camp on the river side, bears or no bears. I had never encountered one in the state of Minnesota. It would be good luck if I got to see one. I studied the trail map, double checked my backpack for essentials, then set off on an overnight adventure. The Middle Trail is a section of the Superior Hiking Trail that is fairly level because it follows the topological contours all the way to the Manitou River. My pace was comfortable as I walked over the roots of old growth cedar trees towering into the mist.
As the overcast sky darkened, I relied more on my LED headlamp.
Side Tracked onto a Spur trail
I came to a fork in the trail and took the track on the right. Little did I know that this was a spur trail to the viewpoint just east of the Middle Trail [see map]. The track dwindled then became overgrown. It was growing ever darker and cooler and had begun to rain more heavily. What was left of the trail led me eastward to the brink of a granite bluff.
The photo below shows the view in the daytime (the next day). You get a nice glimpse of Lake Superior on the horizon.
I’d been sidetracked onto the loop trail to the view point at the bluff. So I backtracked my way to the Middle Trail, and continued north towards the Manitou River.
Final Sprint to My Campsite on the Manitou River
I passed a rude shelter with log walls on three sides and a tar paper roof, a table and bench inside, and a fire ring out front.
It looked like a great resting spot for cross country skiers in the middle of winter, a good place to warm up and have lunch by the fire.
Continuing north, the Middle Trail joined the Manitou River Trail..
I followed this south (to the right) until I came to the spur trail for Campsite 3.
Campsite #3 on the Manitou River in George Crosby Manitou State Park
Steps descended to a narrow flood plain next to the river. A few areas had been cleared for pitching tents. A wooden bear pole had been set up for slinging food bags out of reach.
I strung up a poly tarp rain shelter, then put up my backpacking tent underneath, on top of a ground sheet. I slung my dry bag with all my food up the bear pole.
Although deep in bear country, I knew I’d be comfy, dry and warm in my mummy style sleeping bag, snug within my tent, all sandwiched between poly tarps.
My accidental side trip left me quite exhausted so I nestled in for the night, drifting off to the sound of the rain drops on the tarp and the rush of the nearby river, luxuriating in peace and solitude, deep within the boreal forest just north of Lake Superior.
The only Interruption was the frantic scuffling of a small mammal outside my tent. I’m pretty sure it was a rodent.
Campsite #3 on the Manitou River in George Crosby Manitou State Park
I cooked breakfast using my jetboil stove and the water I had brought along in my Nalgene, polycarbonate, wide mouth water bottle .
After breakfast I waded out mid-stream into the Manitou River, only a few inches deep, for a brisk sponge bath. Here and there there were crayfish scavenging the bottom.
After breakfast, I hiked north along the Manitou River Trail
The Manitou River Trail in George Crosby Manitou State Park
After breaking camp, I hiked north along the Manitou River Trail. In places, I scrambled over cedar roots. The roots sheltered a fantastic club moss garden, right out of the Avatar movie.
The Cascades on the Manitou River in George Crosby Manitou State Park
The trail brought me to a series of cascades. The cascades descend 40 feet over the course of 200 feet. They whip up the tea colored water into a froth. Both the color and the froth result from humic acids leached from the thin topsoil of the boreal forest.
The best place to photograph the cascades is knee-deep in a pool at their base. From there, the cascades are quite photogenic, indeed. I’d recommend you bring a tripod and neutral density filters for long exposure photography, to capture the essence of the cascades. For example, check out a few photographs by Bruce Danz.
I suspect that the pool would be a pretty good spot for fly-fishing, or for a cold plunge on a hot summer day. You may even be able to scramble up the cascades to find more pools and photo opportunities.
I’m not sure whether salmon from Lake Superior run this far up the Manitou. If so, they might get past the cascades. As far as I know there are no barrier falls between the cascades and the great lake so there might be a respectable salmon run through here.
When you visit the park, be sure to check out the cascades on the Manitou River, a short hike through dense primeval forest along the Middle Trail. If you’re feeling adventurous you could hike the Humpback Trail to the cascades, which follows a summit path over quite rugged and rocky terrain.
The Humpback Trail in George Crosby Manitou State Park
On a separate trip, I hiked the Humpback-Middle Trail loop (see map, above). The whole loop only covers three miles but takes 2 – 1/2 hours to hike because of its ruggedness. In other words, expect to maintain the same pace as for an alpine route.
The photos below show that much of the trail is a tough scramble over jagged boulders with no level footing, but a lot of fun.
Down the Yellow Birch Trail to Campsite #10
I’ve also explored the Yellow Birch Trail that leads Southeast from the parking lot towards a series of backpacking campsites much further downstream along the Manitou River.
This trail isn’t for the faint of heart, but offers a rewarding experience with its series of isolated riverside campsites in the heart of a primeval, old-growth forest.
At least two legs of the trail descend steeply, and are often muddy and slippery, so you want to wear suitable footwear with Vibram soles. Otherwise you’re going to be riding down the trail on your ass. Elsewhere, boardwalks traverse marshy areas. Although rugged and rough in places, the trail volunteers of the Superior Hiking Trail Society and others have contributed a lot of time and effort to really upgrade this trail.
As the trail approaches the river, it follows dry channels of washed-out rock and dirt.
At one point there is a short scramble up a bank at the edge of the river, overhanging a deep pool. This might be ideal for a swim on a hot summer day.
The obstacles along the trail serve to deter the vast majority of tourists. The reward is a nice little isolated patch of solitude amidst some of the most amazing wilderness that nature has to offer.
Each of the campsites along the trail has a rudimentary bear pole, a few flat areas for your tents, and a fire ring.
Firewood for Sale at Crosby Manitou State Park
You can purchase seasoned firewood at one of the firewood lockers near the parking lot. The lockers feature self-serve payboxes that rely on the honor system. For five bucks you’ll get an arm full of split, seasoned birch. I returned to the parking lot several times to retrieve wood for my fire ring. Remember it’s illegal to collect firewood in state parks, so obey the law while keeping the ecosystem intact and leaving no trace.
Benson Lake Loop Trail
The Benson Lake Trail follows a loop around the lake. It’s worthwhile because it follows a lovely long boardwalk on the eastern shore and because it offers beautiful views across the lake.
On the far side of the lake, the trail brings you into an old stand of birch trees, the oldest I’ve ever seen. A few may be 400 years old, an extreme old age for a birch tree. These specimens were gargantuan at two or three feet in diameter.
Evidently the ecosystem at the far end of the lake provides optimal conditions for their growth and survival.
The loop trail also features five hike-in campsites. Three of these adjoin the boardwalk making them premium campsites if you want easy access to the firewood in the parking lot.
The lake also has a primitive launch site for canoes. The lake is stocked with trout. You’ll need a fishing license.
George Crosby Manitou State Park Summary
In summary, this state park lies one of the most undeveloped stretches of the North Shore.
It features lush, dense, old-growth stands exceeding 400 years and offers rugged, rocky, hilly terrain. The park enjoys the lake-effect in terms of climate, keeping it temperate throughout the summer, and deters mosquitoes which seem to avoid Lake Superior. Its biggest advantage is to present obstacles to the hordes of tourists who inevitably flood the North Shore of Lake Superior in the summer.